I think last week I had posted a trailer for the film Dev D; if not, here is the link to its official site:
http://www.devdthefilm.com/
More, importantly, here is the you tube video of the best song - ever- in the history of Indian film. It's called Emotional Atchyar and singing are two Elvis-y impersonators (impersonators once removed). I guarantee you will want to sing this song all the time:
The Rediff review is pretty good, so I'm just linking to it.
I really enjoyed the movie overall. The experimental filming style and the use of music in the film was quite stunning, even if at times, I found the characters a little flat towards the end. It could have been shorter. Oh yeah, I remember writing about a couple of the vignettes last week. I won't say much more, other than that you should watch it! I'm still digesting it...
Friday, August 21, 2009
So, an Indian walks into a club
Some of the best moments in E.M. Forster's A Passage to India are when the Indian "natives", no matter how affluent they may be, are not allowed entry into the clubs reserved for the British. These scenes in the novel clearly demarcate the public/private zones that keep people separated from one another. The clubs represent power, money, racial superiority, among others. They are also very gendered zones, in which women have their own special areas and are not allowed in other parts of the club. Mrinalini Sinha has this excellent piece on clubs in colonial India, in which she discusses how these clubs were a way for Europeans, no matter what their nationality, to make a "home" within the space of the club. Drawing from and extending Habermas' notions of the public sphere, she examines the centrality of the clubs as integral to the making of the "colonial public sphere", where the colonizer was uniquely marked as "clubbable" and "recognized the potential clubbability of the colonized" (492). There was, as Sinha argues, a separation of spheres -- keeping Indians and women out. These clubs traditionally were "gentlemen's clubs", had separate spaces for women, often called the "Hen-house" (498). I don't want to dwell for too long on Sinha's article, but there's this great moment in her essay when she traces the etymology of the club: "the etymology of 'club' -- which derives from 'cleave,' meaning both to split and to adhere, that is, 'uniting to divide' -- nicely captures its ambivalent political function in the colonial India" (504). This, she argues, leads to a "specific enactment of 'whiteness" in colonial India (ibid). It's important too, that clubs were symbols of expressing and replicating British national culture during the colonial period. So, what does it mean when these same clubs continue to thrive in the postcolonial period? My uncle and aunt belong to The Gymkhana Club and the Delhi Golf Club. Both of these clubs have a long history, going back to the early 20th century, although the latter did not gets its current nomenclature till sometime in the 1960s. I have linked above the Madras Gymkhana Club because the site for the one in Delhi apparently "may harm my computer". Hmmm.... Anyway, my uncle has this joke that if you want to become a member of the Gymkhana Club, you have to sign up well in advance of your birth and for the Golf Club, as soon as you're out of your momma's womb. B
All this aside, I will say that walking into either of these clubs is really taking a walk into history, even if that history is evidenced by the peeling wallpaper, faded paints, and old waiters in black and white serving ware... something right out of a Raj novel. The club scene raises some really fascinating questions about postcoloniality and national identity in India, and I've been trying to research the topic, but no luck yet. I will say though, that they are beautiful places in their own way. The Delhi Golf Club has a bar that looks really cool, with red vinyl booths that I would love to try out sometime. Oh yeah, another interesting point of note: last week, my aunt, uncle, Alisa, and I went there and there was this notice of default prominently displayed on a bulletin board. These were members who had not paid their dues this year!!!! Public humiliation! I love it!
All this aside, I will say that walking into either of these clubs is really taking a walk into history, even if that history is evidenced by the peeling wallpaper, faded paints, and old waiters in black and white serving ware... something right out of a Raj novel. The club scene raises some really fascinating questions about postcoloniality and national identity in India, and I've been trying to research the topic, but no luck yet. I will say though, that they are beautiful places in their own way. The Delhi Golf Club has a bar that looks really cool, with red vinyl booths that I would love to try out sometime. Oh yeah, another interesting point of note: last week, my aunt, uncle, Alisa, and I went there and there was this notice of default prominently displayed on a bulletin board. These were members who had not paid their dues this year!!!! Public humiliation! I love it!
After the Rains....
Yesterday was quite an adventure. Alisa and I went to her gym to work out. Gyms here are ridiculously expensive. The one I belong to costs me well over $100/month! Yoga is a bit more manageable. I went to a Sivananda Yoga place with Nathan and Alisa and it costs about 200/Rs, each class (about $4). I'm still figuring out the Sivananda thing, so I'll get back on that one. I've always liked doing Ashanta, so this is a switch. What I do like about Sivananda though, is that between each stretch, you do a rest period. And, anyone who knows me, knows how much I like to slee... I mean, rest. Anyway, her gym is nice, much nicer than mine, even though it only has weight machines and no free weights besides some dumbbells. The shower is also a steam bath with rainshower head. That was NICE.
Afterwards, we went to Saket mall. Saket mall is definitely for the rich or the ex-pats. They have everything from M.A.C. to French Connection to the Body Shop, Esprit, name it. After a delicious lunch, we went to the Lush store (how random is that?) and then left the mall to go to Sarojini Nagar Market. Now, Saroj (as the locals may have it) is the place to shop! It's basically a couple of blocks of cheap "fallen fresh off the truck" western wear. You an really bargain. I got two pajama bottoms for $1.00. And, they're nice. So, we're barely there for about 5 minutes or so (around 3:30 pm) and the skies opened up and it suddenly started to rain. Not too badly, though, so we thought we should at least leave with something! So, we happily continue. Hah!!!!!! Then, it really started to rain! We were trapped inside a store, with the vendor trying to make special deals with us ("rain sale") to buy all this crap from him. About 30-35 mins. later, we decide to make a run for it and try to flag down an auto! We had to practically swim to the main road. After we made it there, we couldn't find an auto to bring us back home. Finally, we got one, even though this other woman was trying to steal it from us (yeah, that's something else here, you gots to be assertive!!!!!). 100/Rs and about an hour or so later, we were back. Here are some photos that I took from the auto:
Afterwards, we went to Saket mall. Saket mall is definitely for the rich or the ex-pats. They have everything from M.A.C. to French Connection to the Body Shop, Esprit, name it. After a delicious lunch, we went to the Lush store (how random is that?) and then left the mall to go to Sarojini Nagar Market. Now, Saroj (as the locals may have it) is the place to shop! It's basically a couple of blocks of cheap "fallen fresh off the truck" western wear. You an really bargain. I got two pajama bottoms for $1.00. And, they're nice. So, we're barely there for about 5 minutes or so (around 3:30 pm) and the skies opened up and it suddenly started to rain. Not too badly, though, so we thought we should at least leave with something! So, we happily continue. Hah!!!!!! Then, it really started to rain! We were trapped inside a store, with the vendor trying to make special deals with us ("rain sale") to buy all this crap from him. About 30-35 mins. later, we decide to make a run for it and try to flag down an auto! We had to practically swim to the main road. After we made it there, we couldn't find an auto to bring us back home. Finally, we got one, even though this other woman was trying to steal it from us (yeah, that's something else here, you gots to be assertive!!!!!). 100/Rs and about an hour or so later, we were back. Here are some photos that I took from the auto:
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
The Third Week's Always a Charm
Well, I've been here for almost three weeks now and finally, things seem to be settling down a bit. Sadly, however, I've watched only 2.5 movies since being here. I will recommend a film called Fashion. Unfortunately, I missed the first third of it, but am planning to get it and re-watch. It stars the amazing Priyanka Chopra, playing a supermodel who falls from grace. Along the way, she makes choices that hurt herself and the people around her. It was refreshing to see a movie which dealt with themes such as: pre-marital sex, abortion, drug addiction, etc. in a way that doesn't pass any judgments and instead, is interested in analyzing those situations. I'm seeing more of that trend in Hindi cinema (okay, after 2.5 of them) and my curiosity is definitely piqued. More as time goes on...
I'm spending a couple of days at Nathan and Alisa's and last night, we also started watching Dev D:
I'm excited to finish watching it. The second vignette, I was told, was inspired by a news story where a school girl from Delhi was video taped performing fellatio on her boyfriend. The video was, of course, posted all over the place. I'm trying to track down the news stories to make the comparison between the film and the actual event.
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Alisa and I went to the Lodi Gardens Restaurant for a posh power lunch last week. The gardens are just spectacular with two tombs: Muhammad Shah's Tomb and Sikander Lodi's tomb. Muhammad Shah (1434 - 44) was the third ruler of Sayyid dynasty. There is a nice, if slightly neglected, bonsai garden. It was the first day of the rains while we were there, so I'm anxious to go back and check out the entire space. There are beautiful paths going throughout the garden - it's supposed to be a jogger's paradise. The restaurant is beautiful with glassless windows that give people eating there great views of the gardens. There is also an amazing outdoor seating area. It might be a great place to read. The food was so-so and pretty expensive, pretty much the same price you'd pay for a good lunch in the U.S. But, I really needed something like that to kick-start my time here. One of the gates to the gardens leads to Khan Market, which is basically a mall for the ex-pat communities. Shops are expensive and beautiful. You can buy just about anything you need there, especially imported products. There are three or four really good bookstores (Bahrisons is probably my favorite). Also, some coffee shops, if you're into that sort of thing. I like walking around there just because of all the different languages I can hear. It makes me a wee less homesick too.
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Indian Bureaucracy -
So, because of my Research visa, I had to go to the FRRO (heck, I don't know what that stands for, but man, everything here is all about initials -- no one calls anything by its full name) to register. There's also AFRRO (I'd rather have that). This was quite an ordeal, spanning three days. So, the first day I get there and after waiting in line for about 2.5 hours, I was told by the reception guy that I didn't have the right paperwork! It was quite annoying since I did bring everything that the USIEF folks told me to. He was extremely rude to me and I left there in tears. Apparently, I needed the original Affiliation letter, which is sent to the U.S. Consulate. Then, they want a proof of residence (lease) and a copy of a utility bill (which is strange since you have to register within 14 days of arrival in the country and who gets a bill in that short amount of time?). Since I'm not renting and have no utilities, my uncle wrote a letter, with everything but the utility bill attached. Second day: I get there a little bit earlier, hoping not to have to wait in line for too long. The office opens at 9:30 (10, according to IST - Indian Standard Time). Again, I'm there for several hours. They did let me get to the next step but the utility bill was an issue, even though I had everything else they required. That was the day of my power lunch. So, I had to go back a third time with a bill. Last night, I was told that so much of how things will go there depends on the mood of the folks who work there. That was pretty apparent to me. I really can't deal with this kind of bureaucracy.
-----------
Last night, there was a dinner at Fulbright house. Fun and nice. I drank four drinks! Here are a couple of photos. The first is of Nathan and Alisa and the second of Alisa and me.
Still to come... joining a gym in Delhi :)
I'm spending a couple of days at Nathan and Alisa's and last night, we also started watching Dev D:
I'm excited to finish watching it. The second vignette, I was told, was inspired by a news story where a school girl from Delhi was video taped performing fellatio on her boyfriend. The video was, of course, posted all over the place. I'm trying to track down the news stories to make the comparison between the film and the actual event.
--------
Alisa and I went to the Lodi Gardens Restaurant for a posh power lunch last week. The gardens are just spectacular with two tombs: Muhammad Shah's Tomb and Sikander Lodi's tomb. Muhammad Shah (1434 - 44) was the third ruler of Sayyid dynasty. There is a nice, if slightly neglected, bonsai garden. It was the first day of the rains while we were there, so I'm anxious to go back and check out the entire space. There are beautiful paths going throughout the garden - it's supposed to be a jogger's paradise. The restaurant is beautiful with glassless windows that give people eating there great views of the gardens. There is also an amazing outdoor seating area. It might be a great place to read. The food was so-so and pretty expensive, pretty much the same price you'd pay for a good lunch in the U.S. But, I really needed something like that to kick-start my time here. One of the gates to the gardens leads to Khan Market, which is basically a mall for the ex-pat communities. Shops are expensive and beautiful. You can buy just about anything you need there, especially imported products. There are three or four really good bookstores (Bahrisons is probably my favorite). Also, some coffee shops, if you're into that sort of thing. I like walking around there just because of all the different languages I can hear. It makes me a wee less homesick too.
----------
Indian Bureaucracy -
So, because of my Research visa, I had to go to the FRRO (heck, I don't know what that stands for, but man, everything here is all about initials -- no one calls anything by its full name) to register. There's also AFRRO (I'd rather have that). This was quite an ordeal, spanning three days. So, the first day I get there and after waiting in line for about 2.5 hours, I was told by the reception guy that I didn't have the right paperwork! It was quite annoying since I did bring everything that the USIEF folks told me to. He was extremely rude to me and I left there in tears. Apparently, I needed the original Affiliation letter, which is sent to the U.S. Consulate. Then, they want a proof of residence (lease) and a copy of a utility bill (which is strange since you have to register within 14 days of arrival in the country and who gets a bill in that short amount of time?). Since I'm not renting and have no utilities, my uncle wrote a letter, with everything but the utility bill attached. Second day: I get there a little bit earlier, hoping not to have to wait in line for too long. The office opens at 9:30 (10, according to IST - Indian Standard Time). Again, I'm there for several hours. They did let me get to the next step but the utility bill was an issue, even though I had everything else they required. That was the day of my power lunch. So, I had to go back a third time with a bill. Last night, I was told that so much of how things will go there depends on the mood of the folks who work there. That was pretty apparent to me. I really can't deal with this kind of bureaucracy.
-----------
Last night, there was a dinner at Fulbright house. Fun and nice. I drank four drinks! Here are a couple of photos. The first is of Nathan and Alisa and the second of Alisa and me.
Still to come... joining a gym in Delhi :)
Media and Other Popular Culture News
Shah Rukh Khan and the Newark Airport Debacle
I'm not sure how many of you heard about this in the good ole U.S. of A. but it's been pretty big news here. Actor and major public personality Shah Rukh Khan was recently detained at the "Newark Airport for two hours when he arrived to do an independence day show in Atlantic City. Let me quote from one source:
The fate is Shahrukh made a spash in US media. The New York Daily News reported that 'this never happened to Arnold Schwarzenegger'. The Washington Post referred Shahrukh as 'One of India's biggest movie stars' and the New York Times took note of the incident with an agency story headlined 'Bollywood Icon Detained at US Airport.'
The detention of Shahrukh in the US turned into a big issue, so much so that the Indian Government took it seriously. Information and Broadcasting Minister Ambika Soni said that the Americans deserved to be paid back in the same coin for frisking beyond limits. BJP spokesman Ravi Shankar Prasad also said the detention was uncalled for." (http://entertainment.oneindia.in/bollywood/features/2009/shahrukh-humiliation-blessing-disguise-180809.html)
Khan said in an interview post-event that he was stopped only because of his last name but that he didn't think this was racially motivated. From later news posts, he has apparently said that he will not go back to India.
Point of note: His latest movie is My Name is Khan which is about the prejudices faced by South Asians after 9/11. Hmmmm....
---------------
Rakhi Ka Swayamvar (India's Bachelorette)
I've been meaning to write about this since I got here, so here it is finally: Of course, reality television has infiltrated the lives of Indian masses. No exception to this is the Indian version of The Bachelorette. TheStar.com reported that, "According to aMap data, the final episode that ran for over two-and-half-hours got a TVR of 6.3, the highest for the show and the highest for the finals of any of the reality shows in this year". A one-time item girl (more on item numbers another time), she drew people to their television screens for the entire season as they waited with baited breath who she would pick. A collective sigh of relief could be heard when she picked NRI Canadian Elesh Parujanwala, who has said that he plans to relocated to Mumbai since he doesn't want Rakhi to choose between her career and a long-distance relationship. When I first got here, she had not yet made her decision and the entire city was buzzing about it. I was sad that I missed the finale (dinner party).
I am particularly struck (as were a number of media sources) on her choice of dress during the finale. Complete in bridal regalia, she garlanded her fiance, even while she declared that she wouldn't marry him right away. I highly recommend watching the youtube of it below:
Since then, a number of news channels and talk shows have been focusing on if reality television is detrimental to India. Newest favorite: Iss Jungle Se Mujhe Bachao (kinda like Survivor)
I'm not sure how many of you heard about this in the good ole U.S. of A. but it's been pretty big news here. Actor and major public personality Shah Rukh Khan was recently detained at the "Newark Airport for two hours when he arrived to do an independence day show in Atlantic City. Let me quote from one source: The fate is Shahrukh made a spash in US media. The New York Daily News reported that 'this never happened to Arnold Schwarzenegger'. The Washington Post referred Shahrukh as 'One of India's biggest movie stars' and the New York Times took note of the incident with an agency story headlined 'Bollywood Icon Detained at US Airport.'
The detention of Shahrukh in the US turned into a big issue, so much so that the Indian Government took it seriously. Information and Broadcasting Minister Ambika Soni said that the Americans deserved to be paid back in the same coin for frisking beyond limits. BJP spokesman Ravi Shankar Prasad also said the detention was uncalled for." (http://entertainment.oneindia.in/bollywood/features/2009/shahrukh-humiliation-blessing-disguise-180809.html)
Khan said in an interview post-event that he was stopped only because of his last name but that he didn't think this was racially motivated. From later news posts, he has apparently said that he will not go back to India.
Point of note: His latest movie is My Name is Khan which is about the prejudices faced by South Asians after 9/11. Hmmmm....
---------------
Rakhi Ka Swayamvar (India's Bachelorette)
I've been meaning to write about this since I got here, so here it is finally: Of course, reality television has infiltrated the lives of Indian masses. No exception to this is the Indian version of The Bachelorette. TheStar.com reported that, "According to aMap data, the final episode that ran for over two-and-half-hours got a TVR of 6.3, the highest for the show and the highest for the finals of any of the reality shows in this year". A one-time item girl (more on item numbers another time), she drew people to their television screens for the entire season as they waited with baited breath who she would pick. A collective sigh of relief could be heard when she picked NRI Canadian Elesh Parujanwala, who has said that he plans to relocated to Mumbai since he doesn't want Rakhi to choose between her career and a long-distance relationship. When I first got here, she had not yet made her decision and the entire city was buzzing about it. I was sad that I missed the finale (dinner party). I am particularly struck (as were a number of media sources) on her choice of dress during the finale. Complete in bridal regalia, she garlanded her fiance, even while she declared that she wouldn't marry him right away. I highly recommend watching the youtube of it below:
Since then, a number of news channels and talk shows have been focusing on if reality television is detrimental to India. Newest favorite: Iss Jungle Se Mujhe Bachao (kinda like Survivor)
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